THE SACRED MOUNTAIN
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Mt
Penanggungan, which lies between Surabaya, Malang and Mojokerto,
is not a high mountain. Rising only 1,650m above sea level, it
is dwarfed by the giganfic peaks of Arjuna and Welirang to the
south. Yet the mountain's unique form, as well as the fact that
it stands alone, rising majestically above East Java's northern
plain, makes Penanggungan especially prominent. The mountain
is best viewed in the early morning or late afternoon, from the
road leading south from Surabaya to Pandaan and Prigen and then
west towards Trawas, Pacet and Mojokerto.
The idea of the mountain as a place for retreat, meditation and
spiritual sustenance is well known in Java. Since time immemorial,
the Javanese have recognized the volcanic peaks as sources of
nourishment, as well as agents of the most terrible devastation.
During the Hindu period, mountains like Bromo and Semeru were
seen as being inhabited by benevolent, yet irritable gods, who
were quick to offend and thus needed constant placation. According
to Javanese mythology, the holy Mt Mahameru, home of the Hindu
gods, was transported to Java in order to hold the island in
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During
the journey, however, it began to break apart, the base falling
to earth and becoming Mt Semeru, Java's highest mountain, while
the peak landed some distance away on the plains near Surabaya.
Little wonder that such a story should be attached to Mt Penanggungan
when considering its shape. A central, almost perfectly rounded
summit surrounded by four minor peaks, more or less symmetrically
arranged, reflects clearly the form of the 'cosmic mountain'
itself. Judging by the enormous number of ancient archaeological
remains hidden away on its slopes, it is clear that Penanggungan
has, through history, been regarded as an especially sacred place.
No less than 81 temple sites have been discovered on the mountain,
mostly dating from the 14th and 15th centuries and taking the
form of terraced 'altars', aligned with the mountain peak. Quite
a number of them are to be found on the minor summits of Mt Bekel
and Mt Gajah Mungkur. Conditions here are steep, overgrown and
subject to landslides. In addition, the area is home to various
species of wild animal, including the leopard, so it is advisable
to consult with a guide before setting off on any expeditions.
Although many of the temples are situated high up on difficult
terrain, there are a few near the base of the mountain which
can be reached quite easily. |
Mt.
Penaggungan,viewed from the north west
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Even if time
is short, a drive around the mountain and a visit to the sites
of Candi Jolotundo and Candi Belahan should not be missed. These
two sacred bathing places are among the oldest remains on Mt
Penanggungan and date from the reign of King Airlangga in the
11th century. Belahan, in fact, is believed to be the burial
place of the king himself. Two beautiful life size stone images
of the goddesses Sri and Laksmi can be seen at the bathing pool.
The famous portrait of 'Airlangga as Vishnu', which used to stand
between the two goddesses, was taken from the site some years
ago and can now be seen at the museum in Mojokerto.
While Candi Belahan faces east
and is approached from Pandaan, between Tretes and Surabaya,
Candi Jolotundo is located on the other side of the mountain.
A narrow road leading south to Ngoro descends from Trawas and
winds through the forest. At Jolotundo it is possible to arrange
a hike to the mountain's summit, or hire a guide to visit some
of the other temple sites which can only be reached on foot.
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