Travel Notes

At this point the subject of Nyai Roro Kidul came under discussion. Nyai Roro Kidul is the legendary goddess of the southern ocean, firmly believed in by coastal dwellers and at least accepted by the majority of Javanese. Whatever her origins, which may well date back to the pre-Hindu period, the goddess is a vital force in traditional Javanese culture. So important is she, in fact, that since the founding of the Central Javanese kingdom of Mataram in the 16th century, every sultan of Yogyakarta and Surakarta has sought her protection and has been 'mystically' married to her. Her realm extends along the entire southern coast of Java and when it is time to pay tribute to her at the annual sea festivals, official religion has to give way to her demands. The main object of these festivals, or petik laut as they are called in south eastern Java, is to ask for safe passage on the fierce and turbulent ocean, as well as pray for a bountiful catch in the forthcoming year. Well known petik laut occur at Pancer Beach, Pesanggaran in June, as well as at Muncar and Blimbingsari beaches in August. Another festival connected with the sea takes place at Cacalan beach, close to the town of Banyuwangi, in October. Annual Hindu festivals also occur close to the sea. Celebration of Han Raya Siwa Lastri Nyepi (Mikiyis), Kuningan and Saraswati can be seen at Grajagan, Pulau Merah (Pesanggaran), Tambakrejo and Lampon Beach (Pesanggaran) respectively. Activities at these festivals typically include ritual bathing, placing of offerings (flowers, fruit, sometimes goats' heads) and a variety of traditional performances.
So much for Nyai Roro Kidul; by now we were approaching the shore and judging by the size of the waves breaking close by, none of us was prepared to dispute her existence. In fact, we were not to forget her during the following two days.