Legend of Coban Rondo
With Coban Rondo, you’re not just talking about waterfalls but also the surrounding mountains and mist and a fascinating local legend. Nestled in the highlands of Batu, East Java, Coban Rondo is a great place for those who love nature and adventure. Spend a day exploring the three waterfalls that lie hidden along the trails snaking up these mountains.
We decide to head out for the furthest waterfall, Coban Maten, which sits at the end of a hard 4-km trek, placing it well off the beaten tourist track. From the bottom, there are wonderful views of the vegetables gardens dotting the surrounding hills. After about an hour, we stop at the lovely plateau of Lambau, which affords spectacular views and provides an excellent area for recreation. You can stop for a picnic, play games with your group or even camp out for the night on its grassy fields. According to our guide Elvis, this place was heavily cultivated during the period of Dutch colonization but is no longer used for farming. Views of Batu and Malang cities are in the distance while Panderman Mountain rises before your eyes.
Soon, we enter the heavily logged forest and our guide explains the dilemma surrounding its use. “Palawi (the semi-private company managing the area) is still struggling with the status of this forest. At the moment, its existence is still as a production forest so villagers can still cut down trees for their needs.”
The road from here to Coban Manten becomes quite challenging. Both sides of the road are full of bushes so you need to be very careful not to get scratched. As well, the ups and down place strain on the legs. After a while, I am glad to finally hear the sound of rushing water. I’m excited to catch a glimpse of the waterfall but it’s only the sound of a 2-m wide river that must be crossed.
“There are three little rivers we have to go across before getting to Coban Manten,” Elvis explains.
As soon as my feet touch the water, I freeze. The water is as cold as ice and the current strong. We pass through the first river, and also the second one. However, the last river is much more complicated than the other two, with a heavy wooden log lying across it. It’s a tough act but you can choose to squeeze under it or balance yourself on top of it.
Finally, we get to beautiful Coban Manten and I understand the meaning of its name. Like a wedding couple standing side-by-side at the altar, the two adjacent falls here descend majestically separated by just a bit of green forest. The first one is 100 meters tall while the other is just 20 meters shorter.
Probably because of its elevation at 1200 meters above sea level, the weather easily changes. On our way home, the mist starts falling and the sky darkens, forcing us to forgo a visit to Coban Tengah, which lies about a kilometer off the main path headed down. It’s a pity actually.
Arriving at Coban Rondo, the atmosphere seems far different than that above. The weather is clear and many tourists are moving about, enjoying the fresh 80 m waterfalls. The facilities here are quite good compared to those at Coban Manten, which is more rustic. Garden chairs are even built for visitors to enjoy the forest. The road down from here is also paved though it’s been damaged in some parts and the information board explains the history and legend of these waterfalls!
In Javanese, Coban Rondo means ‘widow waterfalls’. This comes from a local legend spread amongst villagers about the tragic romance of a married couple, Dewi Anjarwati and Raden Baron Kusumo. After only 36 days of their marriage, they went to visit the groom’s parents at Mount Anjasmoro, despite the taboo in Javanese culture for a marriage couple to travel so far.
On their way, they met a guy attracted to Dewi Anjarwati’s great beauty. He tried to take her away from her husband and a horrible fight broke out. Raden Baron Kusumo was killed. Fortunately, the bride was saved, quickly whisked away and hidden by her servants in the waterfall. Whether true or not, the waterfall where Dewi Anjarwati allegedly hid is now named Coban Rondo, reflecting her awful status after her husband’s death. The large rock underneath the falls is believed to be the place where Dewi sat and mourned her loss. While a place of great natural beauty, it’s the legend that really makes Coban Rondo a fascinating attraction.
PT Perhutani Alam Wisata
Unit Kerja Wana Wisata Coban Rondo
Ds. Pandesari, Pujon, Malang
Jawa Timur, 65391
T/F 0341 705 7569
e. cobanrondopalawi@yahoo.com
Jakarta Java Kini Magazine
Add comment June 14th, 2007