Ampel Mosque, Keeping Religious History
September 20th, 2006
Visiting Surabaya will not be complete without enjoying the beauty and historical uniqueness of Ampel Mosque. This site is well-known in South-East Asia as Sunan Ampel Pilgrimage Tour.
Sunan Ampel or Raden RAHMATULLAH is one of Wali Songo who is well-known as an Islam missionary in Indonesia, especially in Java island. He made Surabaya as the place where he spread Islam because this place located on the coast used to be called Ujung Galuh.
To support Islam spreading, Sunan Ampel built a mosque and its well, bedug (large drum suspended horizontally at mosque to summon to prayer) and pesantren (school of Koran studies for children and young people, most of whom are boarders) which up to now can be seen its originality.
The Mosque was built in 1421 A.D. It is 800 square meters. There are 16 pillars whose height is 17 meters inside the mosque to support its roof. It is believed that those pillars are brought directly from Arab. On those pillars, there is calligraphy of Ayat Kursi [verses in Koran that explain the power of God]. Several Korans are leant on each pillar.
Beside that, there is a tower which is usually used to recite the call to prayer. The tower that is 30 meters height is located near to the South entrance of the mosque. The tower has unique shape. It is made of hardwood tree decorated with carving and motif. There are many steps to pass to go upstairs. Unfortunately the tower is not open for the public anymore. There are big bedug and small bedug on the South section of the mosque. The small bedug is the artifact of Sunan Ampel.
 Around the mosque, there are the big doors. The upper section of the door is decorated with the ornament of symbol of Mojopahit Kingdom. The door is about 3 meter height and it reminds us of the style of the old house’s door. Ampel Mosque is used for Moslems who want to worship God and ask for His favors whenever they want. Even, it seems that the room in the mosque is designed to make people who stay inside feel comfortable and cool. Koran and Islamic books are kept in order in the bookcases spread inside the mosque.
The expansion of the mosque has already been done. Additional mosque was built in 1993 and finished 3 years later. Even though it looks modern but the similarity with the previous building is maintained as much as possible such as the pillars and several ornaments. Even though those pillars and ornaments are nowadays architecture making but they look classical. Besides being used as a place to do prayer, this mosque is also used to hold recitation of the Koran especially after sunset prayer and the early morning prayer except on Thursday evening.
The Story Of Mbah SOLEH
There is an interesting story behind the process of building the mosque. It is a story about Mbah Soleh who has nine souls. It starts when Mbah Soleh dies for the first time and Sunan Ampel builds the mosque alone. One day, Sunan Ampel hopes the presence of Mbah Soleh to help him and suddenly the figure of Mbah Soleh has stood behind him. This phenomenon is repeated. After the eight death of Mbah Soleh, Sunan Ampel passes away and the building of the mosque is continued by Mbah Soleh. When the building of the mosque is finished, Mbah Soleh passes away for the ninth time and also for the last time.
There are seven wells from where the water can still be taken up to now inside the mosque. It is believed that these well never get dry. It can be said that the water is Surabaya’s zam zam [zamzam is water from Mecca”s sacred well]. The seven wells are connected by tunnel and the water can be taken from twelve gentongs[large earthen-ware bowl for water] and dispenser on the west section of the mosque.
Unfortunately, the wells cannot be seen publicly because they are covered by wood. It is done to avoid polytheism. It is also believed that the water from the wells can heal various diseases.
Ampel Tombs
 On the other side of the mosque, there are several tombs which are always visited by hundreds pilgrims. On the north section of old Ampel, there is Mbah Soleh tombs. Nine gravestones are arranged in a row showing that Mbah Soleh had ever been alive and he had died nine times. These tombs are iron fenced around to protect the tombs.
On the west section of old mosque, we can see the tomb of Mbah BOLONG who first succeeded to determine the direction of Mecca which is then used as reference for all mosques in Java island. It is said that Mbah Bolong used his finger to make a hole on the wall so that he could see Kabah (the small cubicle shrine in the Great Mosque of Mecca containing the famous black Stone of Mecca) in Mecca.
Besides Mbah Bolong’s tomb, there are tombs of the martyrs and Sunan Ampel’s disciples. 25 meters from Mbah Bolong’s tomb, you enter the area of Sunan Ampel’s tomb which is located side by side with the tomb of his first wife CONDROWATI. The area of these tombs is wider than other tombs. It is to give more space to the great number of pilgrim.
The pilgrims also believe that if they ask something near to or in front of Sunan Ampel’s tomb, their wish will easily come true. Perhaps, because of this belief, Sunan Ampel’s tomb is always crowded by the pilgrims. It can hold 3000 pilgrims.
This religious site is 4 hectares. It has 5 gates and 5 entrances. They are located on the west section at gang Petukangan Baru [gang is a narrow street]. On the south section, the entrance is located at Ampel Lonceng. The main gateway which is also the main entrance is located at Ampel Suci street. This entrance is open round the clock.
There are two entrances on the east side, namely, Ampel Masjid and Ampel Wira’i and from the north, the gateway is at gang Petukangan Tengah. From Nyamplungan Street, these four narrow streets can only be reached on food around 100 meters to the mosque.
Approaching the mosque, you will find Ampel Market. This market is a place where the shopping stalls sell things along the gateway. Those shopping stalls sell Islamic accessories and small things such as Arabic perfume, veil, tasbih (a string of 100 beads to recite laudation), Moslem clothes, and so on.At Lawang Agung shop, you can find Ampel special cake. This cake is called “Sambosa”. It is a triangle-shaped cake with kind of curry powder.
Prohibition and Tips
There is no specific prohibition to enter the area of Ampel pilgrimage site. It is just those who are Moslems should wear Moslem clothes, considering that this site is an religious area. For those who have other religions are also allowed to enjoy the historical remains. They just should wear polite and tidy clothes. It is also not allowed to take picture in this area.
If you want to witness the crowd of pilgrims at Ampel Mosque, you may come on Thursday Kliwon evening (Kliwon is the fifth Javanese’s day of the five-day week). That day is the peak of all rituals done by the pilgrims. Besides that day, the peak is also on the last ten odd night at the end of Ramadhan (ninth month of the Arabic calendar).
Transportation
The religious area is located at 45 Ampel Suci street Surabaya or 53 Ampel Masjid in front of Nyamplungan street. There are several alternative transportations to take, among them are:
1. Lyn D (public Transportation). It stops at Nyamplungan street in front of the entrances mentioned above.
2. Lyn WL (public transportation). It stops at the same street.
There is parking lot for motorcycle, car and bus. The motorcycle can be parked in front of the entrance whereas car and bus are parked across the street.
To enter this area is free of charge. But the pilgrims can do charity by putting the money into charity box spread around Ampel area. If you are interested in visiting this pilgrimage site, please contact (031) 3537948.
Photo text
1. Ampel Mosque and its old minaret
2. A pulpit from Mojopahit period inside Ampel Mosque.
3. Sunan Ampel’s tomb that interests the pilgrims’intention.
source : www.suarasurabaya.net
Entry Filed under: East Java News
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