Archive for June 8th, 2006

A Perfect Wave of Gradjagan Beach, in Southeast Java

Exotic surf travel almost never has the kind of grace and logic that it does in magazines and movies. Beautiful, uncharted waves are out there, but it’s a long, tedious, sometimes dangerous job finding them. Even with all the complaints about crowded line-ups, only a few surfers ever sail out into the great unknown. This is why many people today think of Gradjagan, in southeast Java, not just as a perfect wave, but as a perfect adventure.

In many ways Grajagan – better known as G-Land – remains a strange, almost alien place to visit, starting with the fact that it’s located at the edge of a jungle filled with birds, reptiles, insects and other creatures not found on the beaches of Sydney or Los Angeles. Then again, the primitive G-Land surf camp of the mid-1970s now offers staff-prepared meals three times a day, satellite TV, shuttle service to the waves, and unlimited cold beer on tap. Yet the jungle still has a strong presence. The surf is dangerous as well as thrilling. But the Gradjagan adventure is catered and well-organized, designed for those who prefer to dip into exotic waters, rather than fling themselves into the deep end.

From your local domestic airport, you can fly to Bali, motor to G-Land, surf for 10 days, then return home, without having to decide anything except what board to ride when it’s 8’ and offshore. True, it isn’t as brave or romantic as heading out with nothing more than a map, a can-opener and a box of waterproof matches. But G-Land allows you to concentrate on waves and surfing, while still getting a strong hit of exotica, and most people appreciate the indulgence.

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Sukamade beach is the site where turtles appear

SUKAMADE TURTLE - BEACH, 97 km from Banyuwangi
Situated on the south coast, Sukamade beach is the site where turtles appear between about 9 p.m. to midnight to lay eggs, which they bury under about half a meter of sand. The egg-laying is subject to seasons, and at times the beach can be awash with turtles, especially during the full moon. Beach guards collect the eggs shortly after they have been laid and rebury them elsewhere where they are safe from poachers and such animals as leopards. The eggs hatch in about two months after which the young turtles are tended in special tanks at Sukamade until they are strong enough to survive in the ocean.

Today, more than 2,500 turtles have been tagged and recorded since the beach became a protected area in 1972. The huge creatures which struggle from the moonlight surf are not without problems, as predators on and off the shore will devour most of their eggs and offsprings, but at least they are spared the human poacher. If homosapiens does lurk in the shadows, it is only the curious.

Sukamade is still very isolated. To get there requires a 4-wheel drive vehicle, and above all perseverence. Main access is through a 50 km stretch of extremely rough road, passing rubber, coffee, and cocoa plantations. As yet there are no bridges crossing the the rivers, which, though negotiable during the dry season, can become very difficult to cross during the rainy season. Despite the discomfort, however, the trip may be rewarding. Two full days are needed for the 2-way journey with an overnight stop in Sukamade where limited accommodafon is available

How to reach Sukamade:

Surabaya - Probolinggo (99 km) : bus/train
Probolinggo - Jember (99 km) : bus/train
Jember - Jajag (74 km) : bus/train
Jajag - Sukamade (62 km) : taxi

A conservation effort has been underway for some years at Sukamade Beach, where four types of sea turtle come regularly to nest. Stability of the turtle population has been helped by a careful system of tagging and monitoring, as well as the use of special hatcheries. Watching these giant creatures emerge from the surf and struggle-up the beach to lay their eggs on a moonlit night is a unique and unforgettable experience, and one which is certain to ensure Sukamade’s ever growing popularity.
source : www.petra.ac.id/eastjava/cities/banyuw/tourobj/ban10.htm

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