Mt. Penanggungan
Seat Of The Gods
Mt. Semeru, seen
from Piket Nol
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Mt.
Penanggungan, which rises from the plains to the south of Surabaya,
is not a high mountain. At only 1,650m above sea level, it is
dwarfed by the gigantic peaks of Arjuna and Welirang nearby.
Yet the mountain's unique form, coupled with the fact that it
stands alone, majestically sweeping up above East Java's northern
plain, makes Penanggungan especially prominent. The idea of the
mountain as a place for retreat and meditation is well known
in Java. Since time immemorial the Javanese have recognized the
volcanic peaks as sources of nourishment as well as devastation.
Mountains like Bromo and Semeru have been seen as being inhabited
by benevolent, yet irritable gods, quick to offend and in need
of constant placation. According to Javanese mythology, the holy
Mt Mahameru, home of the Hindu gods, was transported to Java
in early times in order to hold the island in place. During the
journey, however, it began to break apart, bits of it falling
to earth to form the more prominent peaks of Java. Thus, as the
story goes, the base became the island's highest mountain, Semeru,
while the peak landed some distance away to become Mt Penanggungan.
Little wonder that such a legend should be attached to this mountain
when considering its shape. A central, almost perfectly rounded
summit surrounded by four minor 'peaks', more or less symmetrically
arranged, reflects clearly the form of the 'cosmic mountain'
itself. Judging by the enormous number of archaeological remains
hidden away on its forest covered slopes, it is clear that Penanggungan
has been regarded as an especially sacred place. Expeditions
by Dutch archaeologists earlier this century revealed no less
than 81 temple sites, mostly dating from the 1 4th and 1 5th
centuries. Quite a number were discovered on the minor summits
of Bekel and Gajah Mungkur, where conditions are steep, overgrown
and subject to landslides. Several, however, are quite easily
accessible to those who are prepared to do some walking.
The
gateway of Jedong, which dates from the 14th century, can be found
on the northern slope of Mt. Gajah Mungkur, one of Penanggungan's
minor peaks.
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